Otta to Heidal – deep Norway

Off the main track in the heart of Southern Norway

This route is easy accessible by train, starting and ending at the railway station in Otta. It takes you on a round along rivers with green water straight from the glaciers, across a couple of mountains, and to some well preserved areas where almost every farm is cultural heritage. You might also get a glimpse of the highest peaks in Norway along the road. Try some typical food along the way, and make an obligatory stop at the bike shop surprise in the middle of nowhere. I tested this route with an overnight stay in Heidal, from where I took an extra loop around some mountain farms before returning to the station in Otta.

The route described here is 126 kilometres with 2127 meters of climbing, divided into two similar parts. Spend two days if you want to explore the surroundings, take photos and enjoy the places described, or do the whole round in one day if you are satisfied with seeing the views from your seat, and just need a challenge.

The first leg of this trip takes you north to Sel. This is in the valley Gudbrandsdalen, an important route for the main road and railway connecting the north and west with the east and south of Norway. But the road described here is the quiet road west of the river. Sel is the place of the character Kristin Lavransdatter, as described in the books by Nobel Price author Sigrid Undset. This was set in medieval Norway, and you’ll still find farms and wooden houses as they where found in those days.

From Sel turn west, up a quiet road through a narrow valley along a lake, overlooking the other side made up by stones from rockslides. The valley brings you across to Vågåmo, a cosy mountain village characterised by its traditional brown timbered houses. Here you’ll also find shops and cafes to refill. This is the perfect spot to try the typical sour cream porridge, with enough calories to get you across the next mountain.

The next leg starts with a climb, partly to get away from a busy road, but also to get some wonderful views back across the lake Vågåvatnet before entering another world in another valley. This is Sjårdalen, a long descent surrounded by vernacular farm houses and lush green farmlands. Enjoy this comfortable part as you soon will be climbing the steepest part of this leg.

When you come to the crossroads at Lalm, be aware. You are in the middle of nowhere, but if you follow the road towards Otta for a 100 meters or so, you’ll see the bicycle shop JT Sykkel. This is a treasure chest for any cyclist, with an earlier professional cyclist now running his own shop, attracting cyclists from far away. Here is help to get for a broken wheel, or just a chat with the proprietor or any of his customers.

To get back on track again, return to the crossroads and follow the sign to Heidal. This is also the start of a climb with switchbacks bringing you from 372 to 739 meters above sea level in less than 7 kilometers.

Heidal is a valley on the threshold to some of Norways national parks, with mountain farms scattered around in the slopes around the Sjoa river. The river is popular for rafting, and you might spot some activity as you get some views into the deep gorge carved out by the water streams.

There will be different offers for staying the night in this area. Why not stay on a farm, or in the Heidal Gjestgiveri, a white painted wooden hotel, with balconies and a terrace overlooking the valley. The perfect place for a quiet night before conquering the mountains.

Day two of this route starts in Heidal, and is spent on some rough gravel around the mountain Steinhø, before heading back to Otta. The climb starts just across the Sjoa river, heading for the mountain farms. The road also rises above the wild and almost unaccessible Bergdøldale, which is also a nature reserve. Getting into the heights and above the trees you’ll get som impressive views, back east into the Rondane National Park, and across west towards Jotunheimen. Jotunheimen is home to the highest peaks in Norway, Glittertind (2452 m) and Galdhøpiggen (2468 m).

After this loop in the mountain, it is time for some refuel. One possibility is to visit Heidal Ysteri, a café serving food made with the local cheese. especially its renowned brown cheese Heidalsost. They also serve some tasty pastries, like the “skolebrød”, with vanilla cream in the middle, and a coconut drizzle around.

The last leg of this route will bring you from Heidal to Otta on some quiet roads, along rivers with greenish water from the glaciers, and weathered old farm buildings.